Purpose and Scope of Owner's
Manual
Sources of Additional
Information and
Parts
OUT ISLAND 30 STANDARD
EQUIPMENT
Procedures and Data for
Documentation
Procedures and Data for
Documentation
III.........
COMMISSIONING AND
DECOMMISSIONING
Tankage and Plumbing
Connections
Spar & Standing Rigging
(Pre-Stepping)
Receiving and Commissioning
Check
List
Spars and Rigging (After
Stepping)
Names of Company and
Individuals
Involved:
B.
Decommissioning for Storage
(Winterizing)
C.
Re-commissioning
After
Lay-Up
IV........
OPERATING
PROCEDURES
A.
Tips on Sailing the Out Island
30
Stepping the Mast and Dockside
Tuning
2.
Optional Diesel Engine
(Yanmar)
6.
A.C. 110 Volt Shore Power
System
4.
Bleeding the Fuel System (Yanmar Diesel
only)
2.
Vinyl Hull Liner and Bulkhead
Covering
3. High Pressure
Laminate
Surfaces
7. Stainless
Steel Rigging and
Hardware
8.
Chrome Plated Bronze
Hardware
VI........
CHARTS AND
DRAWINGS
A. Outboard Profile And
Sail
Plan
J. Working Jib Hardware
Package
M.
110 Volt A.C. Shore Power
Circuit
With your purchase of your new Morgan Yacht, you became a member of a large fraternity of Morgan owners. Welcome to the group!
Over the years, more than 4000 Morgan yachts have been produced and sold. We have maintained contact with many of the owners and users of our yachts. Feedback from them has been extremely useful in our continual upgrading of our product. This feedback, coupled with our internal R&D programs and the application of new technologies developed in the marine industry and related industries, is reflected in your yacht’s design and construction. We believe that your yacht represents the current “state of the art” and, we believe she will satisfy your expectations with respect to aesthetics, function, and safety.
Morgan Yacht is committed to producing and marketing the best value in sailing yachts available in the world. While each person's concept of value varies, factors generally considered are quality of design and workmanship, performance, safety, aesthetics, purchase price, and resale value. The weighing of these factors differs by individual and over time. We welcome your assessment of our product. Input from you will help us measure and, if necessary, change the balance of priorities assigned to our product.
We wish you many happy years of sailing with your new yacht, and......
LET'S KEEP IN TOUCH!
MORGAN YACHT
The purpose of the Owner's Manual is to provide you with the following information:
General operating procedures for your yacht and all of the factory installed systems.
General maintenance
procedures.
Specifications, drawings, and schematics on
the yacht, her components, and her systems.
Volumes could be written on the operation,
maintenance, and repair of your yacht and her systems. To keep the text
manageable in terms of readability and easy reference, much of the detail
has been omitted. Supplementing the text, you will find separate manuals
for most of the motor equipment in your yacht. The separate manuals, coupled
with the general text and drawings provided in the Owner's Manual,
should allow you or your yard to diagnose and correct most problems you are
likely to encounter.
We encourage you to first study the Owner's
Manual carefully and then to read the various equipment manuals. This will
provide you with an understanding of the basics and a knowledge of where
to locate specific details.
Discussions on navigation and general boat
handling are beyond the scope of the Owner's Manual. Information on these
extremely important areas is available in numerous publications. A list of
recommended reading is included in the last section of the
manual.
Morgan Yacht continually upgrades its product.
Every effort is made to update the Owner's Manual to reflect these changes,
and the manual is believed current at the time of printing. If, however,
you find a discrepancy between the manual and the yacht, consult your dealer
before operating the system in question.
Morgan Yacht dealers have been selected on
the basis of their knowledge in the marine field. In most cases, your dealer
will be able to answer questions which arise and are not covered in the manual.
He can also obtain replacement parts for you from Morgan Yacht. You
should contact your dealer first for information or repair
parts.
Morgan Yacht has three internal service groups
to assist you with problems
the dealer is unable to resolve. All are located
at the main plant at 7200
Bryan Dairy Road, Largo, Florida 33543. The
phone number is (813) 544-6681.
Their functions are described
below
Warranty
Department: Provides information
on warranty policy and administers warranty work.
Customer Service
Department: Provides general and
technical information on Morgan products.
Ship's
Store: Supplies, repair parts,
retrofit kits, and general marine gear (hours 10:00 A.M. to 5:00
P.M. Monday through Friday).
The Out Island 30 has been designed to replace the ever popular Out Island 28 in the Morgan series of cruising yachts. Through ownership feedback from the five year production history of the 28's, a strong positive design approach dictated the specifications of the Out Island 30. Design priorities were:
(1) improved utilization of interior layout, (2) large cockpit, (3) improved sailing performance, (4) updated cabin decor to coincide with the current teak-trimmed interiors.
The Out Island 30 exterior styling approach maintains the low profile modified flush deck design. This styling is the trademark of the Morgan Out Island cruising series.
The basic hull proportions suggest an average beam/length ratio of 0.30 with a full length keel of shoal draft characteristics.
The fore body sections below the waterline are carried deeper to reduce the angle of entry over the Out Island 28. This improves sailing performance on the wind. The full length keel concept preserves directional stability usually sacrificed in a shoal draft cruising yacht, with a cutaway after section as was present on the Out Island 28.
The cockpit design of the 30 gave up a single aft lazarette hatch for full length port and starboard cockpit seats with lockers. This change from the Out Island 28 allowed for a larger foot well, which increased the seating capacity of the Out Island 30 cockpit, even with the addition of wheel steering and a traveler.
The aft galley layout on the interior greatly increased the flexibility of design in the main cabin. Port and starboard settee berths with a starboard convertible berth back to a double, and a bulkhead table really captured a spacious theme.
Length Overall |
29’ 10”
|
Length Waterline |
24' 10"
|
Beam |
9’ 2”
|
Draft |
3’ 4”
|
Displacement |
9500 lbs (approximate)
|
Lead Ballast (Internal) |
3000 lbs (approximate)
|
Sail Area |
444 sq. ft.
|
Standard Engine |
30 hp Atomic 4 (Gas)
|
Fuel Tankage |
18 gallons
|
Water Tankage |
40 gallons
|
Vertical Clearance |
40'
|
HULL
Solid fiberglass
hand lay-up laminate, substantially reinforced in way of keel and all chain
plates
Internal cast lead
ballast securely fiberglassed into molded keel
Boot top and sheer
stripe - contrasting color
Rub rails - heavy
neoprene extrusions with aluminum end castings
Bottom paint -
anti-fouling - Interlux Fiberglass Bottomkote
Interior wood
construction treated with wood preservative below cabin
sole
Bronze thru-hull
fittings w/valves
DECK & EXTERIOR
HARDWARE
Cast aluminum stem
head fitting
Stainless steel
bow pulpit
Stainless steel
lifeline stanchions w/vinyl coated single lifeline
Tinted acrylic deck
hatch forward w/neoprene gasket
Two cockpit seat
lockers
Companionway
hatch
4" illuminated
compass
Teak deck
handrails
Teak toe
rails
7 non-corrosive
opening ports w/Lexan glazing & screens
Bronze thru-hull
fittings w/valves
Four mooring
cleats
INTERIOR
Teak slide out liquor
locker
Teak veneer paneling
on main bulkheads
Mildew resistant
vinyl interior hull liner and bulkhead covering
Double berth w/stowage
below
Settee berth w/stowage
below
Custom fabricated
4" foam cushions upholstered in selected matching fabrics
Vanity mirror 12"
x 16"
Stainless steel
lavatory
Teak companionway
steps
Teak
handrails
Dinette/navigation
pull-down table, bulkhead mounted
Shower w/fiberglass
pan and overboard drain
Color-coordinated
carpeting
GALLEY
Stainless steel
flush-mounted alcohol stove w/2 burners, and cover
Stainless steel
sink, deep draft
Emergency water
hand pump in galley
5 cu.ft. ice box
w/see thru acrylic shelf and drain hand pump
4 cu.ft. front load
dry food locker
Dish locker w/racks
and storage bins
Silverware
tray
RIGGING
Sloop rig
Mast/boom - glass peened (hardened) surface for increased
strength and corrosion resistance
Mast halyard winches (two Lewmar 8 or
equivalent)
Airfoil section aluminum spreaders
Complete standing and running rigging
Boom w/fixed gooseneck with outhaul
Schaefer roller furling gear
Topping lift
SAIL HANDLING
EQUIPMENT
Two 2 speed Lewmar #16 sheet winches
One 10" lock-in winch handle
6 ft stainless steel genoa track and lead
blocks
4 ft. mainsheet traveler
PROPULSION & STEERING &
CONTROLS
Universal Atomic 4 gasoline engine 30
hp.
Mechanical steering w/pedestal
Stainless steel destroyer type wheel
Three-bladed propeller with 7/8" Sealoy propeller
shaft
Deluxe engine instrument panel
Engine control panel mounted in starboard sail locker for
weather protection, includes automatic bilge pump override switch and blower
switch
PLUMBING
SYSTEMS
Pressure water system w/filter at pump
Water tank - 40 gal capacity
Fuel tank - 18 gal. capacity
1200 gph 12 volt bilge pump
4.5 gpm shower drain pump
Holding tank
ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
All wiring BIA color coded
All interior circuits (except engine) pass thru one
main
junction panel
115 volt, 30 amp shore power system w/50 ft. cord and 15
amp adaptor
115 volt duplex receptacles
One battery - 65 amp 12 volt marine
2-position vapor proof master battery
switch
12 volt lighting throughout
12 volt 150 cfm engine room blower
Running lights
Masthead light
Navigation and compass light wired as
one
Custom 12 volt D.C. electrical
panel
Hull Number (Coast Guard l.D.) |
|
|
|
Engine Serial Number |
|
|
|
Water Heater Serial Number |
|
|
|
Stereo Serial Number |
|
|
|
Battery Charger Serial Number |
|
|
|
Compass Serial Number |
|
For every yacht manufactured by Morgan, a Master Carpenter's Certificate (MCC) and Manufacturer's Statement of Origin (MSO) are prepared upon request. Both the MCC and MSO must be prepared with the name of the dealer to which the yacht was originally sold. The dealer, then, upon payment in full, endorses these documents over to the person to whom the yacht was sold. The MCC is used for U.S. Coast Guard documentation, and the MSO is the title to the yacht and used for state registration.
Morgan Yacht can issue only one original MCC and MSO. If they become lost, no duplicate will be issued by Morgan Yacht. However, if you wish to document your yacht, and the MCC has been last, Morgan Yacht can provide a letter which will enable you to proceed with documentation of your yacht with the U.S. Coast Guard.
Documentation must be accomplished with the United States Coast Guard in the United States or with the governing agency in the country where your vessel is to be registered. We suggest you contact the Documentation Office nearest you for full details, forms, and instructions.
The following notes and references are made
for your information and convenience. They should in no way be misconstrued
as complete and detailed instructions:
Under 20 tons requires a Yacht License. Twenty tons and over requires a Certificate of Enrollment and a Yacht License.
Requires a Master Carpenter's Certificate
issued by the builder on the prescribed Coast Guard form. This certificate
will be retained by the Coast Guard with certified copies available
to the owner.
The Admeasurer uses data on the Master Carpenter's
Certificate (MCC) to compute net tonnage. The following formulas are
used for sailboats:
Gross Tonnage = 1/2 (LBD/100)
Net Tonnage
= 0.9 (Gross Tonnage)
where |
L =
Length. |
|
B =
Breadth |
|
D =
Depth |
After admeasurement files your certificate of tonnage, application is made for an official number. Title and mortgage papers are required.
Application for Number
Declaration of Ownership and/or Extent of Interest
Identification of Owner's or Existing Mortgages
Declaration of No Foreign Interest Involved
Designation of Master of Vessel
Declare No Freight or Commercial Passengers to be Carried on Board
Designated Home Port - Licensing Office
Designated Hailing Port - Berth Marking Certificate
Contact your U.S. Coast Guard Documentation Office for information, due to the complexity of application.
For your information and reference, the next two pages contain sample copies of actual MCC's and MSO's containing the vital information on your boat.
These forms are signed by Morgan Yacht with the authorized signature and title of the person or responsibility, and are notarized.
Several magazine articles have been written on the subject, which may be of assistance to you in your application. Reprints of these articles should be available from the various yachting and boating magazine publishers.
The commissioning of your yacht is an owner's responsibility. Your dealer may be able to provide you with this service at his yard or recommend a yard which is competent in commissioning Morgan yachts. We strongly recommend that you have the initial commissioning performed by a yard that is experienced in sailboats and, preferably, Morgan sailboats.
The initial commissioning is extremely important. In addition to putting the yacht into service, the following functions are also served:
Shipping damage is revealed. The trucking company is liable for shipping damage. They require prompt notification of any claims against them
Parts shortages are revealed. Morgan boxes the loose gear and provides an indexed packing list. We do occasionally make errors. It is much more convincing to us that the error is ours, if we are notified before the yacht is sailed One owner claimed that he was short shipped a stanchion and that this was first discovered six months after launch!
Quality defects are revealed. Your yacht is thoroughly checked at the plant. Our quality program for each yacht includes a pool test, water drench test, functional testing of all systems, and visual checks of the entire yacht. However, overland travel often causes leaks and other problems which are difficult to detect by visual inspection alone. Also, we occasionally miss something. As with claims of short shipments, early notification to the factory adds credibility to the claim of a quality defect.
The following functions should be performed during the initial commissioning. Detailed procedures are described in their respective sections of this manual.
1. Inspect hull, deck, rudder, propeller and shaft, and spar for shipping damage.
2. Inventory all loose gear and report shortages or damaged parts.
3. Install thru-hull fitting for owner and/or dealer supplied equipment.
4. Touch up bottom paint. For maximum anti-foulant life, a full second coat of bottom paint is recommended.
5. Launch and inspect all underwater fittings for leaks.
6. Fill fuel, water, and alcohol tanks and search for leaks.
7. Install pulpits, stanchions, and lifeline wires. Safety wire lifeline ends and gates.
8. Install standing and running rigging on mast. Check mast wiring and lights. Record rigging lengths from togs supplied. (See following check list)
9. Step mast, set up and adjust rig, pin and tape all turnbuckles, check halyards, and install mast boot.
10. Reeve sheets, bend on and hoist sails. Furl sails and install sail covers.
11. Align engine to .002 max clearance,
12. Check oil and water level in engine.
13. Complete installation of owner or dealer supplied equipment.
14. Check battery condition and recharge, if necessary.
15. Check operation of all Systems and equipment.
16. Check all doors and drawers for proper movement and secure latching.
17. Water test deck, fittings and ports and search for leaks.
18. Sea trial under power and sail.
19. Recheck for leaks in interior plumbing systems (fuel, water, and waste) and exterior hardware.
20. Complete Commissioning Certificate and Inspection Report and return to Morgan Yacht.
21. Clean interior and exterior of yacht thoroughly.
Note: Your yacht may have been partially winterized at the plant. Drain plugs will be placed in the galley sink, Replace all drain plugs prior to launching the yacht.
The next few pages provide you with a check list used by some of our dealers to inspect and commission Out Island 30's. Your completing this check list will provide you with a "condition report" of the boat before and after initial commissioning.
(for Owner's Records)
Delivery Inspection |
|||
|
YES |
NO |
CORRECTED |
Boat properly cradled |
|
|
|
Spar properly cradled |
|
|
|
Free of sideswipe damage |
|
|
|
Free of bridge damage |
|
|
|
Companionway seals unbroken |
|
|
|
Absence of external hardware theft |
|
|
|
Loose gear inventory complete |
|
|
|
Pre-Launch Inspection |
|||
|
YES |
NO |
CORRECTED |
Road dirt removal |
|
|
|
Bottom paint touched up |
|
|
|
Propeller secured properly |
|
|
|
Rudder moves freely |
|
|
|
Prop shaft turns freely |
|
|
|
All below waterline fastenings are tight |
|
|
|
All plumbing to thru-hulls connected and securely fastened |
|
|
|
All thru-hull valves closed All drain plugs and petcocks closed |
|
|
|
Launching Inspection |
|||
|
YES |
NO |
CORRECTED |
Boat properly slung during launch |
|
|
|
No damage during launch |
|
|
|
Thru-hull fittings leak-free |
|
|
|
Rudder bearing leak-free |
|
|
|
Shaft packing nut adjusted to I drop/ 30 seconds, with engine off |
|
|
|
Thru-hull valves, connecting and plumbing leak-free with valves open |
|
|
|
Engine Installation |
|||
|
YES |
NO |
CORRECTED |
All mounting bolts tight |
|
|
|
Engine aligned .002 max. clearance |
|
|
|
Coupling bolts tight |
|
|
|
Shaft set screw tight and secured with safety wire |
|
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Crankcase oil level full |
|
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Transmission gear box oil level full |
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|
Throttle/shift linkage secure |
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|
Engine stop connection secure (if diesel) |
|
|
|
Drain plugs installed and petcocks closed |
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|
|
Cooling water level full |
|
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|
Tankage and Plumbing Connections |
|||
|
YES |
NO |
CORRECTED |
Fuel tank and lines leak-free |
|
|
|
Water tanks and lines leak-free |
|
|
|
Alcohol tank and lines leak-free |
|
|
|
Alcohol pump functions properly |
|
|
|
Alcohol tank retains pressure |
|
|
|
Pulpits and Lifelines |
|||
|
YES |
NO |
CORRECTED |
Pulpits and stanchions secure |
|
|
|
Lifelines properly tensioned |
|
|
|
Lifeline end fitting safety-wired |
|
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|
Gates function properly |
|
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Lifeline wires free of physical damage |
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Spar & Standing Rigging (Pre-Stepping) |
|||
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YES |
NO |
CORRECTED |
Mast free of physical damage |
|
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|
Boom free of physical damage |
|
|
|
Rigging free of physical damage |
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|
Mast wiring and lights functional |
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Masthead pins secured and sheaves free-wheeling |
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Standing rigging and topping lift properly fastened to spar and pinned |
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Halyards installed |
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Spreaders fit and properly secured |
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Sail track free of burrs |
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Alt fasteners tight |
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Standing rigging lengths recorded below |
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Length on Morgan Tag |
Actual Length |
Headstay |
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Backstay |
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Port Main Shroud |
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Starboard Main Shroud |
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Port Forward Lower |
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Starboard Forward Lower |
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Port Aft Lower |
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Starboard Aft Lower |
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Spars and Rigging (After Stepping) |
|||
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YES |
NO |
CORRECTED |
Standing rigging adjusted |
|
|
|
Turnbuckles pinned and taped |
|
|
|
Boom fits |
|
|
|
Spreader angle correct |
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Mast rake correct |
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Winches run free |
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Sails fit and slide freely |
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Outhaul installed and functional |
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Jiffy reefing rigged and functional |
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Halyards function properly |
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Furling gear operates properly |
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Sail covers fit |
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Mast boot installed |
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Mast lights operational |
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Batteries |
|||
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YES |
NO |
CORRECTED |
Fully Charged |
|
|
|
Cable Steering Inspection |
|||
|
YES |
NO |
CORRECTED |
Wheel rotates freely and uniformly |
|
|
|
All connections in steering gear tight |
|
|
|
Cables properly adjusted |
|
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|
Electrical System Check |
|||
|
YES |
NO |
CORRECTED |
All 110 volt Systems work w/shorepower |
|
|
|
All 12 volt systems operate properly |
|
|
|
All light bulbs OK |
|
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Fresh Water System Check |
|||
|
YES |
NO |
CORRECTED |
Cold water runs freely from all faucets |
|
|
|
Hot water runs freely from all faucets |
|
|
|
Shower operates properly |
|
|
|
Electric pump shuts off w/faucets closed |
|
|
|
Plumbing system free of leaks |
|
|
|
Marine Toilet and Waste Lines |
|||
|
YES |
NO |
CORRECTED |
Marine toilet operates properly |
|
|
|
Marine toilet free of leaks |
|
|
|
Sinks drain properly and no leaks |
|
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|
Shower drains properly and no leaks |
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|
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Ice box drains function properly |
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|
Cockpit drains function properly |
|
|
|
Bilge Pumps |
|||
|
YES |
NO |
CORRECTED |
Electric bilge pump operates in manual setting |
|
|
|
Electric bilge pump operates in automatic setting |
|
|
|
Manual bilge pump operates properly |
|
|
|
Other Systems and Equipment |
|||
|
YES |
NO |
CORRECTED |
Stove operates properly |
|
|
|
Engine room blower operates properly |
|
|
|
All dealer or owner installed electronics operate properly |
|
|
|
Emergency tiller operates properly |
|
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|
All deck-mounted winches operate properly |
|
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|
Steering brake operates properly |
|
|
|
All deck blocks rotate smoothly |
|
|
|
All portlights and hatches operate correctly. Port screens present |
|
|
|
Check Joinerwork |
|||
|
YES |
NO |
CORRECTED |
All drawers pull smoothly and latch in closed position |
|
|
|
All doors open smoothly and latch in closed position |
|
|
|
Sole drop-ins fit properly |
|
|
|
Berth access panels fit properly |
|
|
|
Water Test Deck |
|||
|
YES |
NO |
CORRECTED |
All fasteners tight |
|
|
|
Portlights free of leaks |
|
|
|
Portlight drains function properly |
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|
Hatches free of leaks |
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Toe rail free of leaks |
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Other deck hardware free of leaks |
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Cockpit drains operate properly |
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All Coast Guard Required Safety Gear Aboard |
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Registration Numbers Mounted (If Applicable) |
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Sea Trial |
|||
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|
|
|
Engine, engine controls, engine instruments, and drive train operate properly |
|
|
|
Steering system operates properly |
|
|
|
All sail handling gear operates properly |
|
|
|
All sails OK |
|
|
|
No excessive weather or lee helm |
|
|
|
Mast tuned under sail |
|
|
|
Compass swung |
|
|
|
All electronics operate properly |
|
|
|
Notes on weather and sea conditions |
|
|
|
Comments:
Owner Present?
Commissioned by:
Sea Trials by:
Compass swung by:
Electronics checked by:
Winterizing consists of removing gear and equipment that may be damaged, removing liquids which may freeze, thorough cleaning of the yacht, and protecting the yacht from the elements. Procedures for winterizing are described below:
1. Drainage of fresh water system
A. Open faucets and run pump until water flow stops.
B. Disconnect hoses at pump and use air pressure to blow out water in low spots.
C. Remove drain plug on bottom fitting of water heater.
D. Pump hand pump until water flow stops.
E. Leave all faucet valves in open position.
Note: Non-toxic anti-freeze for fresh water systems is available from many marine supply stores. This is recommended, since it will protect the system from any accumulations of water that were missed in the draining operations. Follow the instructions on the can. We under-stand that some owners have used vodka for the same purpose - with favorable results.
2. Head and holding tank
A. Winterize head by following the procedure given in the Raritan manual.
B. Empty holding tank and rinse with fresh water and pump out again.
3. Thru-hulls
A. For in-water storage, all thru-hull valves, except cockpit scupper valves, should be closed.
B. For out-of-water storage, leave valves open.
4. Engine
A. Engine coolant. Two acceptable methods of winterizing the engine cooling system are:
1. Complete drainage - Involves closing thru-hulls, remove all drain plugs on the engine and muffler, and open drain pet-cocks per manufacturer's instructions. Store with expansion tank cap off and salt water pump cover loose.
2. Anti-freeze - Drain system per instructions above. Close petcocks and replace drain plugs. Disconnect intake side of raw water pump hose and feed it into a bucket of pre-mixed anti-freeze solution. Run engine until anti-freeze is discharged from the exhaust, and then shut the engine off. Finally, fill the fresh water cooling system with anti-freeze mixture.
B. Drain and clean engine seawater strainer and leave top loose.
C. Check water separators in fuel system for water accumulation. Drain as needed.
D. Check engine handbook for further "lay-up” details.
Failure to adhere to the manual can affect your engine warranty.
5. Clean yacht interior
A. Clean and drain bilges.
B. Remove all perishables.
C. Wash out and dry refrigerators and/or ice boxes. Leave lids off and/or doors open.
D. Empty all compartments, drawers, and hanging lockers. Clean and leave compartments open.
E. Clean all interior surfaces.
F. Clean and apply spray lubricant to steering units, engine coupling hose clamps, rudder packing gland, shaft log packing gland, gate valves, and throttle/shift controls.
6. Remove the following gear
A. Electronics. Store at home or send out tar any professional attention that may be required.
B. Compass.
C. Cushions, seat backs, carpet, curtains, towels, etc. Store in dry area to prevent mildew.
D. Interior light bulbs. Spray sockets and bases with WD-40 or CRC 6-66 to prevent corrosion.
E. Batteries. Store in a warm, dry location. Check condition periodically and slow charge as required.
F. Sails. Wash and let dry thoroughly. Store in a dry area.
7. Drain shower pan pump and strainer.
8. Wash exterior. Polish, and lubricate metal deck hardware.
9. Wash and wax spars. Lubricate winches and sheaves. Inspect for any damage
10. Clean standing rigging and inspect for damage.
11. Review manuals for all optional equipment. Follow any winterization procedures given.
12. If boat is hauled, clean and inspect bottom thoroughly. Pay particular attention to signs of structural damage to glass, rudder operation, gudgeon weldment and fasteners, electronic senders, thru-hulls, propeller, and zincs.
Caution: Be certain that the prop shaft coupling is disconnected prior to hauling the yacht, and follow hauling instructions in this manual.
13. It is a good practice to record items that were given attention and any detects found during decommissioning. This list will be valuable to you when re-commissioning in the spring.
14. You may wish to use deck covers and/or various devices available to prevent ice formation around a yacht stored in the water. These will provide additional protection to the yacht during the winter months. Consult your local marina for further information and sources of this equipment.
Re-commissioning after lay-up is somewhat less involved than the initial commissioning. The following steps are suggested:
1. Check operation of all thru-hulls before launching boat.
2. Apply anti-foulant bottom paint. Add zincs, if required.
3. Clean exterior of boat thoroughly.
4. Reinstall charged batteries, checking terminals for correct polarity.
5. Check notes on decommissioning. Make any necessary repairs.
6. Launch, step spar, connect rigging, and tune mast. Bend on sails. Check all components prior to reinstalling them.
7. Reconnect coupling and check engine alignment.
8. If engine was drained, replace all drain plugs, tighten caps, and shut drain cocks. Fill and bleed engine cooling system.
9. Fill fuel tank. Bleed engine fuel system (if diesel) per instructions in engine manual.
10. Replace hot water heater plug and reconnect water line at pump. Flush the fresh water system, then fill the water tanks.
11. Clean and inspect engine and engine room equipment. Check oil levels throughout.
12. Clean interior thoroughly.
l3. Check operation of all systems.
14. Install cushions, carpet, electronics, and other loose gear removed during winterization.
15. Sea trial.
The check list provided in section III will be a useful reference for the yacht's condition after re-commissioning.
1. Improper hauling or cradling procedures can result in serious damage to the yacht, The following guidelines should be followed:
2. Prior to hauling, disconnect prop shaft coupling.
3. Refer to drawing number k located in the last section far proper
4. placement of slings.
5. To prevent abrasion damage, the hull topside may be protected by placing carpet between the sling and the gel coat. Be sure the carpet backing surface is against the sling.
6. If spar is removed, be certain it is properly supported for prolonged storage.
7. The hull should be cradled so that most of the weight is borne by the bottom of the keel. Side supports should contact the hull at or near a major bulkhead location.
The intention of this text is to familiarize you with specific sail handling characteristics of your Out Island 30,
For winds up to 15 or 16 knots, you can carry a full main and 150% overlapping genoa. As the wind increases over 16 knots, we recommend reducing sail so as to keep the hull on her sailing lines. As you become familiar with your Out Island 30, you will be able to determine when to shorten sail, and which sail combinations are best; e.g. reefed main and 150% genoa, full main and working jib, etc.
The 150% roller furling genoa may be trimmed quite close to the main shrouds and spreader tips. Four to six inches off the spreaders is as close as you need for maximum performance.
The lead position is important on the jib and should be set such that the sail luffs in the top 1/3 of the luff just slightly before the other 2/3. To aid in determining the correct lead position, install three sets of yams or tell-tales on the jib about one foot back from the luff and evenly spaced up the sail. These will also help you to achieve proper trim on most all points of sail. With the aid of the tell-tales, you can easily find the proper lead. Trim the
jib about one foot from the shrouds and steer the boot up until all ribbons inside and outside are laying nicely back along the luff. Now ease her closer to the wind and see which windward (inside) tell-tales begin to flutter first. If those lower go first, move the lead back -- if those above are first, move it forward. Once the lead is set, mark the track so if the snatch block gets moved, it is simple to put it back in the right place. As you come off the wind toward beam reach, you will find that the upper tell-tales begin luffing even sooner. If you are fussy about trim, you could move the lead forward about six inches and call this a reaching lead. You could go to the forward lead when the apparent wind is further aft than 65 degrees.
When sailing on a reach, always bring the mainsheet car up to weather on the traveler to improve the lead on the boom. This prevents lifting of the boom without the aid of a vang, and maintains efficiency in the main. Always trim the jib before trimming the main.
With your Schaefer roller furling gear, you will note a significant sag in the luff of the sail when you sail to windward in 8 knots or better of true wind, This sag can only be minimized and can't be eliminated unless you go to a different furling system which uses the headstay. In adjusting the tension on the jib halyard for a Schaefer system, don't tighten it so tension is taken off the headstay. However, you can tighten it almost to that point. The sag does reduce the boat's ability to point; however, not by as much as many believe. The sail is cut to accommodate the sag and hence to minimize the negative effect.
As on any sailing yacht, halyard tension should be regulated so as to correctly position the draft of maximum camber of a sail. Tighter halyard tension moves the maximum draft forward while looser halyards produce draft further aft. Maximum draft on mainsails should be 50% of the way back, or approximately in the middle of the sail. Halyard tension on Schaefer roller furling gear does not appreciably affect the draft, only the tension on the luff.
Your Out Island 30 should tack through 80 - 85 degrees on the compass in breezes about 10 knots. It is important to "sail the boat" through a tack so as not to stall her momentum. That means turn the wheel with moderate speed and break the old sheet just after the bow of the boat passes through the eye of the wind. To release the sheet sooner increases the chance of ending up in irons while holding it longer means the boat will tend to stop as the jib backwinds.
When tacking from a reach to a reach, trim the jib in to a close-hauled position before flipping. This helps the boat maintain forward speed while she goes through the wider tacking angle. Coordination between the helmsman and the sail trimmer is important to begin so that the optimum tacking speed can be learned. If you find your boat unusually difficult to tack, be sure you are following the above suggestions.
When executing a jibe, it is always best to bring the main boom near mid-ships before the jibe, then let it out after the stern passes through the wind. This reduces the hazards of a jibe and prevents the boom from riding up and hitting the backstay resulting in a goose-wing jibe.
Assembling the rigging and stepping the mast are normally part of the commissioning procedures. The following steps should be followed:
a. Check all rigging diagrams in this manual for proper attachment of the rigging to the mast. Rigging changes are much easier to effect on the ground than on a bosun's chair at the masthead.
b. Record lengths of each piece of standing rigging in the appropriate section of the commissioning check list (in the preceding section). In the first column, record the length shown on the Morgan tag attached to the piece of rigging. This is the correct design length. In the second column, record the actual measured length. Both numbers should agree to within 1/2". If a greater discrepancy is found, notify the factory.
Actual measurements should include the end fittings and the turn-buckle. The turnbuckles should be 2/3 extended during the measurement. They are pinned in this position at the factory.) The measurement is taken from the centerlines of the pin holes (used to attach the piece of rigging to the mast) and the chain plates (extreme end pin holes).
c. Install spreaders, standing rigging, and halyards to the spar. Install any required electronics wiring in the PVC mast conduit provided. Check all attachments and test lights and electronics wiring for proper functioning. Check that the mast step is ready to accept the mast.
d. Schedule the crane and suitable manpower to manually guide the mast during stepping.
e. Remove cotter pins from turnbuckles and extend to their full open position. Raise the mast to the vertical position and lower slowly into the deck partner. Guide electrical mast wiring through the hole carefully to prevent damage. Place the neoprene mast partner around the spar and work into place inside the aluminum collar as the mast is lowered in place. Spray lubricant and a rubber mallet will help. Be sure wiring is held away from the step when lowering the mast onto the step.
f. Attach the headstay first and then the backstay. Next connect the main shrouds and tighten turnbuckles by hand. Fully release crane support to the spar.
g. Tighten backstay until about a 2” deflection is visible when side pressure is applied approximately four feet above deck. Tighten main shrouds so that they are equally engaged and tension will allow approximately one inch deflection with a side load applied about four feet above deck level.
h. Connect lower shrouds and tension equally for approximately two inch deflection. Sight up the mast to determine the straightness of the mast. If any bends are visible, adjust lower shrouds accordingly until mast is reasonably straight. Intermediate uppers, if any, should be tightened to 1-1/2 inch deflection.
i. Install cotter pins, bend over, and tape with rigging tape. Be sure spreader angle bisects shroud angle, then seize the spreaders and install spreader boots or tape ends. Install mast boot. install boom and connect topping lift. Bend on sails and furl.
With a 10 to 12 knot breeze, sail your yacht to weather. Sight the mainsail tracks for visual straightness. If the mast appears to take on an "S" curve laterally, luff up and adjust the weather shrouds accordingly. It will usually take only three or four turns on any single turnbuckle. Go back to the same tack and sight the track. If straight, charge tacks and repeat the same procedure.
Adjust the fore and aft lowers to remove any bends in the longitudinal direction. The mast should be straight fore and aft, or have a very slight hook forward near the masthead. You may also notice the masthead falling off to leeward slightly which is acceptable.
Check the final tuning by tacking several times until satisfied.
In moderate to heavy weather, a noticeably visible slack should appear in the leeward main shrouds The lower shrouds to leeward should not be loose enough to flop around, but should have a feel of reduced applied load.
You may find it necessary to re-tune during the first fifty hours of sail. During this period, the shrouds may stretch slightly and the chain plates will take their final position.
Your Out Island has a fixed headstay length which has been determined by experience to provide the correct balance. If you experience lee helm or excessive weather helm, this can usually be corrected by changing the rake of the mast. Before changing the rake, be sure the actual setting matches the rake shown on the sail plan. Rake is changed by moving the mast step fore and aft. For excessive weather helm, the mast step is moved aft to decrease the aft rake of the mast. To correct lee helm, the step is moved forward to increase the aft rake of the mast. It is necessary to re-tune the rigging after changing the mast rake.
The halyards are located on the mast and are used to raise and tension the sail in the vertical direction. When the sail is fully up, there should be three to five wraps of wire around the halyard winch, and the rope tail should be used on the cleat.
The outhaul is located on the boom and is used for sail foot tensioning. It can be thought of as the horizontal halyard of the sail.
The clew of the sail is attached to the outhaul car which travels on a
track. The car is controlled via a multi-purchase rope assembly (internal)
that leads out to a cam cleat on the port side of the boom.
If a greater air pocket is desired for prevailing air conditions, the tension on the clew of the sail can be reduced by releasing the outhaul rope. This will allow the sail and outhaul car to travel forward on the track.
If prevailing air conditions require a flatter sail, tension is added to the clew outhaul rope, pulling car and sail toward the aft end of the boom.
Amount of adjustment required for each condition of sail is at the skipper’s discretion.
It is recommended that when the yacht is at anchor the clew outhaul tension be released to avoid stretching the sail.
The following operating procedure is simply a suggested method of quick reefing with actual practice left to each individual skipper's discretion.
Reefing points are provided on the mainsail with reefing lines, blocks, etc. If your mainsail does not have lace lines, they should be added.
It is suggested that the aft end of boom (sail clew) be reefed first, then the tack. The reef line on the boom should be uncleated, and tension added to line via the winch to raise boom to reef point. The reefing line should then be re-cleated.
The halyard should now be eased, and the reef line on the mast uncleated, and pulled down, bringing the sail down to the boom gooseneck, leveling the boom. The halyard should be re-secured, the reef line re-cleated. The sail should now be laid on the boom, and the lace lines tied around the boom. The sail should now be neatly reefed to the boom.
If your sail has double reefing, the procedure should be the same as that above.
a. Pre-Starting Check-Off
It is advisable to use a pre-start check list as even the most experienced skipper can overlook an important detail that may evolve into an unpleasant or costly mishap. The check list will vary, as each owner may have optional equipment that will require attention at this time.
The following procedures are offered to help you develop your check list:
1) Check engine compartment and bilges for odor or gasoline fumes.
2) Turn on battery switch and blower.
3) Check quantity of fuel in tank.
4) Open fuel shut-off valve at tank.
5) Check engine oil level.
6) Check for signs of fuel or oil leaks in engine compartment.
7) Open sea water inlet line to engine (gate valve).
8) Check bilge and shaft lock area for leakage.
9) Allow five minutes for blower to vent bilges.
b. Starting Procedure
1) Set clutch control in "neutral".
2) Advance throttle to approximately 1/4.
3) Pull choke control out ("full choke").
4) Turn on ignition and start engine.
5) As engine starts, release choke approximately 1/3 and decrease choke as engine warms up.
6) Run engine approximately 1000 rpm and check instruments for oil pressure and ammeter "charge" readings, check water discharge at exhaust.
7) Allow engine to run about five minutes to warm up. Check *6r-ward and reverse gear operation before "casting off" tines.
8) A final visual check of the engine room is recommended as the engine is warming up.
c. Engine Operation
1) Run engine at speeds as recommended in the engine manual. Always reduce rpm to idle before shifting and make throttle adjustments gradually.
2) Observe panel instruments periodically.
3) Avoid long periods of maximum rpm, as well as extended "idle" periods. Always run engine long enough to reach normal operating temperature, as short runs cause excess engine deposits and sludge formation of oil.
4) Become familiar with the sound of your engine at its cruising speed and note any vibration characteristics. When an abnormal sound or severe vibration occurs, reduce rpm and make a quick check of instrument readings and related conditions. Stop engine if condition is critical, have problem area checked as soon as feasible.
5) Do not turn battery switch to "off" position while engine is running; to do so will damage the voltage regulator and diodes in the alternator. Selecting battery to be charged (boats with dual battery system) is best done at low rpm to avoid a possible surge on the electrical system.
d. Engine Shut-Down
1) Allow the engine to idle for a few minutes and observe instrument readings.
2) Turn off ignition and blower switch.
3) Close fuel tank shut-off valve.
4) Close sea water inlet valve if boat is to be left unattended.
5) Visually check engine room and bilges for leaks, etc. before leaving boat.
6) Log engine hours for maintenance scheduling.
a. Pre-Starting Check Off
It is advisable to use a pre-start check list, as even the most experienced skipper can overlook an important detail that may evolve into an unpleasant or costly mishap. The check list will vary as each owner may have optional equipment that will require attention at this time.
The following procedures are offered to help you develop your check list:
1) Check quantity of fuel in tank.
2) Open fuel shut-off valve at tank.
3) Check engine and transmission oil level.
4) Check for signs of fuel or oil leakage at engine.
5) Open sea wafer inlet valve to engine (gate valve).
6) Check bilge and shaft log area for water leakage.
7) Check battery switch “on”.
8) Turn on blower.
b. Starting Procedure
1) Set clutch control in "neutral."
2) Advance throttle to "full" rpm.
3) Operate starter (key switch).
4) Reduce your rpm and check for warning lights (oil and generator) on panel to go “off," check water discharge at exhaust.
5) Allow about five minutes for warm up, check operation of forward and reverse controls before "casting off" from dock.
6) A final visual check of the engine room is recommended while the engine is warming up.
c. Engine Operation
1) Run engine at speeds as recommended in the engine manual. Always reduce engine rpm to idle before shifting and make throttle adjustments gradually.
2) Observe panel for warning lights periodically,
3) Avoid long periods of maximum rpm as well as extended "idle” periods. Always run engine long enough to reach normal operating temperature, as short runs cause excess engine deposits and sludge formation of oil.
4) Become familiar with the sound of your engine at its cruising speed and note any vibration characteristics. When an abnormal sound or severe vibration occurs, reduce rpm and make a quick check of instruments (or lights) and related conditions. Shut down engine if condition is critical. Have problem area checked as soon as feasible.
5) Do not turn battery switch to "off" position while engine is running; to do so will damage the voltage regulator and possibly destroy the diode rectifiers in the alternator. Selecting battery to be charged (boats with dual battery systems) is best done at low rpm to avoid a possible surge on the electrical system.
d. Engine Shut Down
1) Allow the engine to idle for a few minutes before stopping, and check warning lights for safe reading "off."
2) Stop engine with throttle control "full aft", hold until engine is fully stopped. Do not use de-compression lever to stop engine.
3) Oil pressure and generator light should now be "on".
4) Turn off ignition switch and blower.
5) Close fuel valve and sea cock if boat is to be left unattended.
6) Visually check engine room and bilge for leakage.
7) Log engine hours for maintenance checks.
The fuel tank is mounted in the engine room on the port side.
A door in the galley above the ice box allows access to the fuel shut-off
valve and fuel gage. The handle on the fuel valve must be parallel to the
valve when "on" and at a right angle when
"off."
A bulkhead mounted filter/water separator is provided in line between the engine and tank. Check periodically for wafer accumulation at this point by removing bottom plug and draining into a container. Replace the element at least once each season, or as required by the manufacturer's recommendations. There is also a fuel strainer on the engine itself and should he serviced as the engine manual specifies. The fuel tank and fill deck plate are electrically bonded to the main ground at the engine.
The following procedures are recommended for safe. fueling with either gasoline or diesel fuel.
1) Turn off heaters and galley equipment.
2) Extinguish all cigarettes, pipes, etc.
3) Stop engine and turn battery switch of "off".
4) Close all hatches and ports to prevent entry of fumes.
5) Do not attempt to take on fuel in rough water or inclement weather where water might enter through the deck plate.
6) Avoid fueling after dark or in poorly lighted areas.
7) Maintain continuous contact between the nozzle and the deck plate fitting to eliminate the possibility of static electric discharge while filling.
8) Take on only gallonage anticipated by gage reading. Do not overfill to point where fuel remains in fill hose.
9) Wipe up or wash down spills after replacing and tightening deck plate cap.
10) Open all hatches, air bilges, and operate blower before starting engine or relighting galley stove. Turn batteries "on."
A further note worthwhile mentioning is to acquire your fuel from a reliable source. Your engine requires clean fuel; water and dirt being its worst enemy. Keep a clean and tight fuel system, and you will have a most reliable engine.
It is important to remember that the D.C. electrical system in a boat is not the unlimited source of power that one is accustomed to in the home. The battery is a rechargeable storage cell. You can only take out of it what you have put into it, for a limited period of time. There is generally an over-abundance of electrical equipment drawing from the battery, and it is not intended to supply all these fixtures at one time.
The battery requires periodic attention to terminal connections, electrolyte level, and secure fastening. The use of a hydrometer is an inexpensive and accurate measure of the battery's condition. Specific gravity measurements of the electrolyte should read between 1.275 and 1.280 on a normally “charged” battery. All cells should read relatively equal; any one cell that has a noticeably low reading is an indication of a bad cell, and the battery should be replaced. The electrolyte (acid) level should be maintained to cover the plates in the battery. Add distilled water as necessary to maintain that level. Excessive need of water is an indication that the -charging rate is too high. A check of the charging voltage should not read over 15.5 volts.
Exercise care in using a hydrometer, as well as all operations around the battery, due to the corrosive nature of sulfuric acid. It is a good practice to have a solution of baking soda around to clean up spills or drippings before they can do damage. Flush with fresh water. Baking soda is excellent for cleaning around batteries, provided the solution is not allowed to get into the cells. After cleaning the battery post and cable connections, a light coat of grease, Permatex, or special spray paint is an effective means of controlling further corrosion.
The next most critical point in the electrical system is the alternator. Its job is to maintain the battery’s charge and cover the demands on the electrical system while the engine is running. The alternator converts mechanical energy into electrical energy, and the drive belt is its only link. This is normally the only periodic attention the alternator will need, maintenance-wise. With the engine stopped, the drive pulley on the alternator should not be able to be turned by hand. Belt tension may seem tight enough, but the pulley may still slip if the belt is glazed or oily.
When checking or tightening the alternator and its connections, if is advisable to turn off the battery switch, This prevents accidental "shorting" of the output terminal which is "live" even when the engine is at rest.
The engine starter motor is the most demanding load that will be placed on the electrical system and is not fused or protected by an overload device. Therefore, it is wise to make periodic checks on the connections at the starter and solenoid switch for tightness and cleanliness. Do not allow tools or other metal objects to come into contact with these connections while the battery is "on,"
The main battery switch connects either or both batteries to the engine circuit and the D.C. switch panel, which serves the boat's interior circuits. Do not switch to "off" position with engine running. "Both" position is intended for emergency or extended engine cranking ability. Continuous running in the "both" position when the batteries are in a low state of charge, can cause overload and possible damage to the engine alternator.
The D.C. switch panel contains fuses and toggle switches to operate the various circuits throughout the boat. The cabin light switch is normally left in the "on" position and the lights operated by a switch on each individual light.
The navigation (running) lights are operated from this panel, as is the optional spreader and masthead light. The pressure water pump and bilge pumps may be left in the "on" position, and are activated by automatic pressure or float switches. The main bilge pump has a "manual" position to override the automatic float switch and must be returned to "off" or "automatic" when bilge is pumped out.
Cabin lights are generously supplied throughout the boat, but it's not recommended they all be used at one time, This generally causes the fuse to fail, which is desirable more so than suddenly finding oneself with a discharged battery. Spare fuses should be kept on board in the sizes listed below:
20 amp Cabin lights |
2 amp Masthead light |
10 amp Running lights |
7 1/2 amp Pressure water pump |
2 amp Bow light |
5 amp Sump pump (shower) |
7 1/2 amp Spreader light |
7 1/2 amp Automatic bilge pump |
7 1/2 amp Instrument lights |
7 1/2 amp Engine room blower |
The A.C. system is a three-wire shore grounded circuit. The shore power inlet is rated at 30 amps, and is mounted on the aft face of the cockpit.
The circuit breaker box is located in the engine room on the starboard bulkhead adjacent to the engine room door. Each circuit is protected by a double pole breaker. For reasons of safety, it is recommended that all appliances used aboard be equipped with a three-wire grounded cord.
The hot water heater is connected to a breaker on this panel, but also has a high temperature reset button built into the heater. Before applying power to the water heater, always be sure the heater has been filled, by turning on one of the hot water faucets long enough to get a steady flow. An empty water heater will burn out the heating element before the temperature reset button can break the circuit.
The proper procedure for connecting shore power to the boat safely is as follows:
1) Turn ship's main breaker to "off".
2) Turn receptacle on dock to "off," if possible.
3) Connect cable to power inlet on boat first (to prevent handling a "live” power line and possibly coming in contact with water).
4) Route the cable in such a way as to prevent strain on either connector, allowing for the rise and fall of the tide and to prevent chafing.
5) Connect to dockside receptacle and turn shore switch on.
6) Turn on ship's main breaker.
Disconnect procedure:
1) Turn off ship's main breaker.
2) Turn off dockside power and disconnect cord.
3) Replace all weather-tight caps on receptacles.
The A.C. system is wired according to ABYC standards and utilizes highest quality equipment available, and is in safe operating condition when it leaves the factory.
The owner must be aware of the hazards of using high voltage A.C. aboard ship, and maintain this system in safe condition.
Don't take chances handling A.C. equipment in wet weather, or while washing down topsides. Caution guests aboard and children about hazards. Do not use any equipment that does not function properly, or is suspected of being defective.
The battery charger, or converter, as it is also referred to, is connected to the feed or "output" side of the main battery switch. This allows you to select either or both batteries to be put "on the line" for charging when the engine is at rest. It also insures that, when the battery switch is “off” all circuits are positively disconnected from the batteries during an emergency shutdown.
Do not turn the battery charger on when the battery switch 'is in the "off" position. This could possibly feed the ship's circuits without the back-up support of the batteries. It could also cause premature failure of electrical equipment In the boat, if the regulator section of the charger should fail, allowing high voltage into the system.
The battery charger has an automatic cut-off circuit which is wired to the engine electrical system. Whenever the engine is started, the charger will shut off and allow the engine driven alternator to take over, returning to service when the engine is stopped.
The charger is protected by internally-mounted fuses on the A.C. and D.C. circuits, as well as the main circuit breaker on the A.C. panel. Be sure all the related circuits are “off” when opening the charger cabinet for service. The charger is an air-cooled unit with louvers on
top and bottom. Care must be taken not to restrict the ventilation provided, nor allow small tools or hardware to fall into the charger while performing maintenance work in the engine room.
Below is a list of thru-hull penetrations and their locations. It Is advisable to become familiar with the location and operation of each one, with the thought in mind to maintain quick access in the event of an emergency.
a. Forward Head -- access through cabinet door under sink.
1) Shower pump and sink discharge --1-1/4" gate valve
2) Toilet intake --3/4" gate valve
3) Toilet discharge --1-1/4" gate valve
b. Galley -- access through cabinet door under sink
1) Galley sink drain --3/4" gate valve
c. Engine Room
1) Raw water intake to engine --3/4" gate valve, located for-ward on starboard side of engine, near door.
2) Cockpit drain and bilge pump, and engine exhaust -- accessible through cockpit sail locker doors.
3) Prop shaft -- access through the engine room door. See details on prop shaft stuffing box in "Maintenance Procedures" Section.
4) Rudder shaft -- accessible through cockpit sail locker.
5) Rudder shaft stuffing box -- see "Maintenance Procedures".
6) Engine exhaust -- not fitted with gate valve, access to thru-hull fitting is accessible through cockpit sail locker.
Note: It is a good practice to close all gate valves when leaving the unattended. This is not only intended as a safety factor, but also insures that gate valves are maintained in working condition, in the event it becomes necessary to close them in an emergency situation.
The 40 gallon water tank (taste-free polyethylene), pressure pump and hot water heater are all located under the forward vee-berth. An access door to the fill connection is located just above the tank in the vee-berth.
The pressure pump is located under the forward berth as is the optional water heater. A manually operated hand pump is installed at the galley sink for use under conditions of a power or pump failure. This hand pump is connected to the electric pump inlet line with a tee connection and a gate valve, which is normally kept closed until such a need arises. The hand pump gate valve is located under the galley sink. There is an in-line strainer at the water tank. This prevents foreign material from reaching the pump and should be checked periodically.
The pressure water pump is activated by a switch on the D.C. panel and will run until the water pressure reaches 30 psi. When a faucet is opened and pressure drops, it will automatically re-start at 16 psi. Upon closing the faucet, the pump will again shut off at 30 psi. If the pump cycles on and off by itself, it is an indication of a leak in the system.
When filling the fresh water system for the first time, or whenever the system has been completely run out of water, it will be necessary to run the pressure pump long enough to purge the air from the lines. Starting from the faucet closest to the pump, run the hot water side until a solid stream of water flows. It is important that the hot water heater is bled in this manner before turning on the A.C. breaker. The heating element will be damaged if the tank is empty.
Operate each faucet in turn until air is out of the system, and “top off” the water tank.
The bilge pump is a submersible type pump capable of removing 1400 gallons per hour. It is actuated by a switch on the D.C. panel in either the automatic position via the float switch, or in the manual position which overrides the float switch, and will run continuously until returned to “off” or “automatic.” The water is routed to the aft cockpit drain in the engine room.
A sump pump is provided for the shower, and is controlled by a switch in the head, which must be turned on when using the shower. The circuit is protected by a 5 amp Slo-Blo fuse on the D.C. panel.
The marine head is a manually operated model using sea water for flushing. The inlet and discharge gate valves should be checked to be open before using.
A decal is supplied with operating instructions which should be mounted on the bulkhead adjacent to the toilet. Further detailed instructions for winterizing, etc. will be found in the manual supplied by the head manufacturer.
The basic Instructions for operating the head as suggested by the manufacturer are:
"To Operate Toilet: Inlet valve should be in open position. before using, pump to wet inside of bowl. After using, pump until thoroughly cleaned. Pump a few more times to clean lines. If excess waste should cause water to rise in bowl, stop pumping until water recedes."
"To Winterize Toilet: Shut off intake valve. Pump until dry. Remove drain plug in base. Pump again to remove all water. Do not use anti-freeze.
"Do not put rags, matches, paper towels or anything in bowl that will plug up valve."
A holding tank, for use in restricted waters, allows the head to be used as needed. But, one must remember to minimize the amount of water pumped for flushing to extend the capacity of the tank. The holding tank is a flexible rubber/nylon tank, installed in a compartment as near to the head as possible. This location may vary depending on the model of the boat and related options.
It is connected to a "tee" fitting in the normal overboard head discharge system. To use the holding tank, rather than the overboard discharge, the gate valve at the thru-hull must be closed first and then open the holding tank shut-off valve.
The holding tank has a capacity of 15 gallons, enough for 30 average flushes. A deck plate provides for pumping out at dockside, and the system should be rinsed and re-pumped out. this can be done by pumping thru the toilet or by a hose thru the deck plate. use of a commercial chemical toilet treatment and deodorizer is recommended.
The ice box is a one-piece molded fiberglass unit insulated with a nominal three inch thick surrounding of polyurethane foam. The inner surface is gel coated with a sanitary-ware formula which is non-toxic and will not “flavor” food.
When the boat is to be idle for a prolonged period, it is advisable to flush the ice box and leave it open to the air to prevent mildew or odor formation.
Although a copy of the manufacturer's operating instructions is included in the owner's packet, we would like to bring some of the basic and important instructions to your attention:
Always purchase a good grade of denatured ethyl alcohol for your stove. Ethyl glycol or methyl alcohol are not recommended, as they cause operational failure and possible damage to the unit.
Unless a remote fill station is installed in your vessel, filling should be at the tank fill. Loosen fill cap slowly to relieve any pressure. Remove fill cap and fill tank with alcohol, using a funnel. Replace cap and screw in place.
a. Pump tank to 20 pounds air pressure.
b. Preheat burners one at a time. Carefully open the burner control to allow alcohol to flow info the primary cup beneath the burner until the center section of the cup is about half full. Do not over-fill. Shut off burner control and light burner. A momentary flare-up during initial ignition is normal. The purpose of pre-heating is to assure that the alcohol entering the flame is vaporized. Vaporized alcohol will ignite and control like a gas burner.
Turn on the burner control. A flare-up at this time indicates insufficient pre-heating. If this occurs, shut the burner control off, allow the burner to cool, and repeat Steps b and c.
Operate the burner as you would a gas stove. Flame intensity is controlled with the burner knob. Periodically, check the tank pressure. Proper burner performance requires a pressure at between 10 and 20 psi.
To shut off stove, turn control knob to the right, cutting off the flow of alcohol to the burner. Release air pressure at the storage tank by loosening filler cop to avoid “flooding" of burner, should controls be accidentally opened when stove is not in use. If a ball type shut-off valve is installed in the alcohol line near the stove and is used for fuel shut-off, the tank pressure need not be released except for filling operation.
General information and maintenance tips are outlined in your manufacturer's instructions. Pease read them carefully before using your stove. Though alcohol is a relatively safe cooking fuel and easily extinguished with water, a thorough understanding and familiarity of the equipment is the best safety device and precaution.
Good cooking to you in your practice of the seafaring culinary arts!
The opening ports on your Out Island 30 are all plastic. This eliminates the corrosion problems associated with metal frames. The glazing is Lexan, an extremely tough plastic, which flexes but is almost impossible to break. A neoprene ring is the primary seal between the glazing and the frame.
When dogging down the ports, it is not necessary to use more than “finger tightening" force. Excessive force, for example, through the use of pliers, may damage the gasket. If finer tightening does not provide a complete seal, open the port and check the seating of the gasket. The usual causes for leaks through the portlights are shifted or damaged gaskets and/or dirt on the gasket or lens surface.
The portlights have integral sill drains. If water collects in the lower recesses, check that the drain holes are free.
The operation of the hatches is straightforward. The following precautions will prevent accidents and reduce the chance of damaging the hatches:
a. Open and close hatches carefully. The thermoformed acrylic hatches can be damaged (at the hinge attachment) by slamming the hatch opened or closed.
b. Before closing the hatches, be sure all obstructions (particularly fingers and heads) are clear.
c. When dogging down the hatches, do not use excessive force. You should not need to use any tools for this purpose.
Navigation, or "running," lights must be in accordance with the rules and regulations of the navigable water the yacht owner intends to use.
International rules and regulations are required to be observed on seagoing vessels. The Inland rules and regulations are for intercoastal waterways, with certain areas such as the Great Lakes and Western Rivers having special requirements and rules pertinent to their local areas.
Morgan Yacht has listed the following notes, for your reference, from the International rules. We suggest the owner of any vessel acquire a copy of the United States Coast Guard publications on the “Rules of the Road” for their intended areas of navigation.
In general, the navigation lights are required from sunset to sunrise, weather conditions good or bad. It is suggested that, in times of reduced visibility, from sunrise to sunset, navigation lights be operational.
If vessel is underway by use of power, and is under 150 feet in length, it is
required to operate a forward light, white in color, 20 point angle (225°),
5 miles visibility range; a stern light, white in color, 12 point angle (135°),
2 mile visibility range; side lights, green to starboard, red to port, in color,
10 point angle (112 1/2°), 2 mile visibility range.
If vessel is underway by use of sail, it is required to operate its side lights (same specification as underway power) and stern light.
If vessel is anchored, it is required to operate its anchor lights, white in color, 32 point angle (360°), 2 mile visibility range.
The yachtsman is encouraged to become familiar with the complete rules and regulations of the above mentioned situations, as well as other possible conditions of operation. Proper operation and use of navigational lights is important for the safety of the yachtsman and the future of boating. A diagram illustrating navigation lights installed on your Out Island 30 at the factory is given in the last section of this manual.
Please consult your engine manual for detailed procedures. The engine manual must be followed exactly to obtain maximum engine life and to keep your warranty in effect. The following sections summarize the maintenance requirements described in the manual and are intended as general information only.
a. Standard Engine (Atomic 4)
In accordance with the engine manufacturer's recommendations, the engine should be operated for the first ten hours running time at about 3/4 throttle or less (about 75% of normal cruising speed).
An oil change is recommended at forty to fifty hours of service. The engine and the gear box are lubricated from the same sump.
b. Optional Engine (Yanmar Diesel)
The engine manufacturer's recommendations for "running in" your new engine will be found in the operator's manual supplied with the engine. This break-in period requires that the engine not be subjected to excessive load for the first fifty hours. The throttle should always be advanced gradually, allowing the boat to reach speed.
Check the color of the exhaust. Excessively black exhaust is an indication the engine is overloading, and throttle setting should be reduced. It is a characteristic of the Yanmar diesel engine to emit some black smoke if the throttle is advanced quickly.
After the running in period, it is advisable to check the engine over for signs of loose bolts, etc., and any unusual wear or chafing of lines. Refer to engine manual for scheduled servicing, which should include the following items:
1) Change lube oil and filter
2) Re-torque cylinder head bolts as follows:
a. Remove rocker cover
b. Re-torque bolts beginning with center bolts and proceed diagonally opposite towards each end of cylinder head. Torque requirements are 80 ft. lbs. "cold" or 100 ft. lbs. "hot."
3) Check belt tension
4) Check engine/shaft alignment
a) Check coolant level
b) Check engine oil level
c) Check transmission oil level
d) Look for evidence of leaks under engine
Refer to the engine manual for scheduled preventive maintenance operations. For maximum engine life, adhere strictly to those schedules and the procedures recommended.
Periodically check the engine and equipment for any signs of a problem. Look for signs of wear on belts and hoses, loose clamps or fasteners, and signs of leaks.
a) Check fuel tank shut-off to be "on".
b) Check fuel filter for sediment or water by opening drain plug on bottom. Replace plug.
c) Follow routing of hose from fuel filter to engine lift pump inspecting hoses as you go. On the engine pump, you will find a lever which allows you to manually operate the diaphragm inside against spring tension. It may be necessary to turn the engine over with the starter slightly to allow the pump arm to relax against the cam shaft. This allows more stroke with the manual lever you are operating.
d) Follow the fuel line from the pump to the engine fuel filter and locate the vent plug on top. Loosen plug two or three turns.
e) It is advisable to have some large rags on hand to catch oil that will be expelled from this point in the course of bleeding.
f) Begin operating the manual lever. This may take several minutes, as the filters will need to fill up (as well as the lines). Operate the manual lever until fuel flows freely from the filter plug with no signs of air bubbles.
g) Loosen the two bleed screws on the injection pump (the head locking screw and the governor vent screw).
h) Operate pump again until fuel flows freely with no bubbles.
i) Re-tighten the vents, beginning with the lowest point (the filter, the head locking screw, and the governor vent screw).
j) Wipe up any spills at this time.
k) Slacken the union nut at the injection nozzles.
l) Move throttle to full rpm and check to see if the "stop" control is in "run" position.
m) Crank engine with starter motor until fuel flows from each injector. Note. Do not run starter motor continuously. It normally takes 30 to 60 seconds of cranking to completely bleed the injector lines. Twenty seconds of cranking with about a two minute rest between periods will be easier on the starter, motor, and battery than steady cranking.
n) Re-tighten injector lines, wipe spills.
o) Re-set throttle position and proceed with normal start-up.
p) Allow sufficient running time to re-charge battery.
The propeller shaft of the Out Island
30 is 7/8" diameter, corrosion resistant, stainless
"sealoy".
The shaft is checked for accuracy
initially at the factory during Installation and is carefully aligned
to the engine with the hull being properly supported and level. At this time,
the shaft log and bearing is bonded to the hull penetration. The coupling
to the engine is checked again for alignment by the commissioning dealer
or agent prior to delivery of the boat. This alignment check should be made
periodically, since the action of a rough sea could possibly change the shape
of a boat enough to disturb engine alignment. If, after the first rough water
experience, the alignment has not changed, it is usually only necessary
to make the check once per season. The coupling should always be disconnected
before the boat is lifted out of the water, and alignment will then be
necessary.
The alignment is considered acceptable
if there is a gap less than .0005 per inch of face diameter of the coupling
(.002 for a 4" coupling, .0025 for a 5" coupling). The feeler gage is inserted
between the flanges at four points 90 degrees apart. Then check again, keeping
the engine coupling stationary and rotating the shaft coupling 90 degrees
at a time. This checks the squareness of the coupling face to the shaft
centerline. The engine alignment is adjusted by raising and lowering the
adjusting nuts at each mount. To make lateral adjustment, loosen the mounting
pod screws which anchor the engine to the bed. You will note there are slots
in the mount pod which allow a reasonable amount of adjustment
side-to-side.
After adjusting and re-tightening
all mount screws and lock nuts, double check the
alignment.
In the absence of a feeler gage,
the alignment can be checked fairly accurately with a strip of paper. Insert
the paper between the two halves of the outer flange and rotate both together
360 degrees. The paper should remain in place through the complete
turn.
The stuffing box provides a seal for the propeller shaft at the inner end of the shaft log. It is connected to the shaft log with heavy wall hose, double clamped at each end. This flex hose allows the stuffing box to maintain alignment with the prop shaft without creating excess wear of the packing due to misalignment or vibration.
The packing used is wax impregnated 3/16" x 3/16" square flax.
When the shaft is turning, it is normal to have a slight leakage at the seal. This acts as a coolant, as well as a lubricant, to protect the seal and shaft surface. Should excessive leakage be apparent, release the lock nut and tighten the packing nut slightly and re-tighten the lock nut. Re-start engine and check again with shaft turning.
When it becomes necessary to replace the packing (boat must be hauled out), loosen the lock nut, back off the packing gland nut, and slide it forward on the shaft. Remove all the old packing and replace it with three rings of new packing. Stagger the ends of each ring so as not to provide a path for water to leak through.
Do not wind one continuous strip spirally around prop shaft to make a seal.
Slide the packing gland back and tighten enough to create a heavy drag on the shaft. This will seal and form the packing.
Back off the packing nut until the shaft feels free and re-set the lock nut. Re-check for proper leakage when boat is returned to the water. Be sure the lock nut is secure, as operating the boat in reverse could cause the packing gland to screw off the stuffing box, allowing water into the boat.